By Patpicha Tanakasempipat

BANGKOK, (Reuters) – Adulwitch Tangsupmanee takes a basket of crispy pork belly from Bangkok to a Chinese cinema. He then sets up the street food stall that his father had run for almost 50 years.

As aromatic pork broth simmers Adulwitch places Chanchai’s framed photograph on the top of the window display. Michelin From 2018 through 2021, guide accolades

Adulwitch, 42, said that he prepared broth for his father while he was still here. “I believe he is still here.”

Chanchai was known to most as “Elder Brother Ouan” and he had been selling Guay Jub rolled rice noodles soup at the same cart for many decades, until his passing at the age of 73.

According to Reuters, he was just one of seven famous street chefs Bangkok lost to coronavirus recently.

Chanchai’s death and those of his contemporaries have left behind rich flavors in their descendants, who will continue the traditions that made Bangkok a world-famous street food Mecca over many decades.

Adulwitch is hopeful that customers will once again queue up to get his dad’s noodles soup as the city reopens to foreign tourists on Monday. This should help to lessen the loss.

Uncertain Future

Bangkok’s street food vendors had been under severe stress prior to the pandemic. They were subjected to evictions, bans, and other city-wide measures in order “clean up” the sidewalks. Meanwhile, more trendy and upscale restaurants began popping up all over the place.

These street chefs, mostly Chinese immigrants of first and second generation, could provide a variety of dishes, including pink noodle soups, stewed pork legs on rice, and other food items. They were already a dying breed. COVID only has accelerated their demise.

Chawadee nualkhair (author of Thai street food guidesbooks) said, “The immediate consequence of this is less choice to the consumer.”

And a further erosion to one of the few remaining democratic places in society, were anyone could find a table for a bowl or plate curry rice, regardless of their social standing.”

MEMORIES AND RECIPES

Chanchai’s kids did not hesitate to take over Chanchai’s stall. However, Ladda Saetang’s children initially considered giving up their stewed-duck stand when Ladda Saetang died in May.

Ladda, a 66 year old lady known by “Grandma Si” ran a stand just 650m (0.4 miles) from Chanchai.

Sarisa, Sarisa’s daughter decided to honor her mother by learning everything she could about duck stewing.

Sarisa, 39, said that she didn’t want to see the recipe disappear. This was her entire life.”

Sarisa stated, “I would be delighted if people say that our ducks still taste as good as my mother’s,” I’m told by some to keep going, as they don’t know where else you can find such food.

Adulwitch is also determined to see his father continue in the famed rolled rice noodles.

This stall was the most treasured possession of my father, and it is what I most love. “I must keep it going no matter what,” said he.